16 September 2017

Making a dress - Black and Pink JSK

Inspiration

My original inspiration is from this dress from pinterest.


Unfortunately the Taobao brand Magic Tea Party no longer make this JSK so I don't have anymore pictures of this dress

But a trail through the internet and I manged to find this photo.


Well it is a start.

Design

So I decided to sketch my dress.  Definitely wanted those pintucks at the front but no lacing at the back as I wanted a zip.

However just when I was happy with my design I had a change of heart and went with buttons down the front.  Not sure why I did but I think when I saw the pintucks I immediately then thought I wanted the top white part to look like a shirt.  Of  course I didn't want to add none functioning buttons so I change the design slightly to have button.



Pattern-wise this was my starting point.


It has the basic bodice I like and the pattern fits nicely.  All I need to do is convert this from an underbust JSK to an overbust one.

Seems easily enough.

Now what fabric to use.  Well I have this fabric sitting around for a while and I have been meaning to use this to make a lolita dress but I always thought I would use it to make a wa-lolita dress because of the pattern resembling yukata fabric.


And I get to use up some of my trimmings that I have been collecting.


I like my trimmings to be just visible for some reason and if I sew this black trim on the very edge you will be able to see it well enough.




Construction

The main fabric is cotton with my lining being anti-static polyester lining.  So cutting was pretty straightforward.  Unlike the last project.



Well that is all the pieces cut.

Lets get sewing.

Getting the front panels sorted first.  I thought I would be clever and use the overlocker to stitch down the thread used for gathering.  Unfortunately they didn't hold as well as I thought so a little bit of fudging was needed.  However they turned out nice enough.



Now I tackled the pintucks on the bodice by ironing them first and then sewing the stitching to keep them in place.  Don't they look pretty.







Now to put all the bodice pieces together.  First the outer fabric and then the lining.


And now we get to put the lining and main fabric bodice together.  Somehow I feel I did this wrong but it looks okay so lets not worry about it shall we.


Previously I would always have trouble keeping the pocket opening from staying together so I decided this time to hand stitch them closed and then when everything is finished I can open it all up.


And now we come to the fun part.  Gathering all this fabric for the skirt.  There is so much to gather as I have to do it for the outer and lining fabric, thank god I don't have additional frills.


There is a lot of fabric here but slowly does it.  Well I sewed as best as I could but I will tell you about them in the conclusion.

But don't worry though I got it all sewn down!

I luckily remembered to add the black trimming to the bottom of skirt before I attached it but I did forget to add the white trimming to the dress.  It was suppose to go inbetween the floral and black panels.  Oh great well I could not add them to the waist so that just leave one place.  Down the middle along the button panel.

This seemed like a good solution but it had a slight problem, I had to sew it 5mm away from the edge because I was going to add the button panel on top.  In the end I sewed the trimming down and then ironed my seam allowance on the button panel and then carefully sew it down to the edge.

Not looking bad but the finally hurdle is the buttons.


I was umming and arring about whether to do them on the machine or by hand.  Machine looks more professional but I had mixed results whereas handsewing them will take a lot of time.

I ended up using the machine as sewing 14 buttonholes seems a bit too many.

Finished

Here it is!




I still have some of the floral fabric so I may make a little bolero jacket to go with it.

Conclusion

Overall it went according to plan.

In hindsight I should not have made the front ruffles as I did.  There was just so much fabric there and made the front panel a bit stiff.


As always I am super critical in the finish.  I can see how some seams are not sewn nicely and things are just not that neat.  However I suppose this is the problem of making your own dresses.


Here the skirt slipped away from the bodice a bit.  Thank god the fabric is black.


Here you can see the tape that the trimming is attached to peeking through.

Roll on the next project!

11 September 2017

Fabric Haul - Cotton blue and white yabane bolt

Something down to earth.  


A cotton white and blue yabane bolt.


I think it is cotton as it does not have the same feel as the wool bolts that I have in my collection.


Plus the colouring has a feel of a yukata and these are normally made from cotton fabric.




From a distance, you can make out the yabana pattern but when you look at it close up it is not so clear.


I would love to make a lolita dress from this as metamorphose every so often release a wa-lolita dress  with yabane pattern.  However as much as I love them, they are just too fussy for my liking which is more toward the classics side of the fashion.  I will probably get some matching navy blue cotton fabric and trimmings when I make the dress.

4 September 2017

Making a dress - Simple black underskirt

Inspiration

Well now I have a white one, I might as well have a black one.

You can not go wrong with black and white as your base colours.

Design

This one is going to be a tiered skirt because I don't have one yet in my collection.

However this one will have side pockets which will be hidden by the top tier of ruffles.  Sneaky I know!!!

Construction

Oh god please remind me why I thought using this fabric was a good idea?  It is sooo slippery and frays at the slightest touch.  Thank god I have an overlocker.

So many ruffles!!!!


This is only the third tier and I think I was going mad.


Finished

However the result is this!


So many ruffles.



And best of all POCKETS.

Conclusion

Don't use lining like material again.  NEVER.  Right lets see how long I will keep this promise.


And due to the fabric choice there were a few mistakes like my side pocket seam not quite aligned nicely.  Well I was sewing 4 slippery layers is not easy even at slow speed.


However it is not impossible as you can see here on the other side, much nicer.


Oh yeah top layer was not long enough.  Boo hoo, it seems I was not careful enough.


And as a result the top tier sticks out more then the rest.  But it seems less noticeable when I put on an a-line petticoat.

28 August 2017

Making a dress - Simple white underskirt

Inspiration

Like a petticoat is a staple in the lolita wardrobe so is a underskirt it seems for me.

I have sewn a few dresses now which sometime I feel would benefit from an underskirt either to provide a little volume or just to provide modesty.

Design

This one is going to be a simple rectangle skirt as I really want to show off the border design.



Shame I can't get more of this fabric.

Construction

Okay, fabric all ready to be cut up.

Oh my scallop edge.  They may look pretty but so much work has to be done to get them to sit nicely.



As I have limited fabric, I opted to only put one pocket.  Can not risk wasting 3 cms, the skirt is already borderline not poffy enough.

Putting in the waistband which will be a half elastic waistband.



Finished

Edit:  Okay I can't put it on Miffy 2 because of a stupid error so I'm afraid I can only give you photos of it lying flat.



Here you can see how I dealt with the lining and hem.



Conclusion

Well this was the first time I make scalloped edge and I think it would be easier if the fabric was thinner.

Oh one fundamental error was made on this skirt.  I did not make the band big enough to fit over my bum.  Yep I was kicking myself when I found out however I discovered that I can still wear it if I put it over my head.  So there we have it, I did not waste half a day making a skirt and wasting this precious fabric.

Also it doesn't quite go with the qi-lolita dress that I originally made it for. Which is a shame but it will go nicely with my blue apron dress.

21 August 2017

Fabric Haul - Pink and white wool juban bolt

I have a lovely fabric to show you today! 


Isn't it cute :)


It is a wonderful wool bolt for a juban and it has delightful sakura/cherry blossoms all over it.



Unfortunately no labels or maker's mark on this one which is a shame.  However I am pretty sure this fabric for a juban as pink is a very common colour for them.  Also this has the same feel as my wool juban that I use regularly when I go out.



As you can see the fabric is fine as you can see the pattern from underneath.


I do need another wool juban in my kitsuke wardrobe but I will try and make a two piece from this.  Will probably use this to make the main body but use different fabric for the sleeves, maybe interchangeable ones so I have flexibility.