Making a Dress - Wa-lolita wraparound JSK

Inspiration

So it is time I tackled my much wanted dress.  A wa-lolita dress that wraps around like a kimono.

This has been on my to-do list since I started to wear lolita over 4 years ago and really wanted to do it because it combined two of my favourite styles.  However it is a tricky style to pull off as it could look ridiculous if done wrong.

Therefore I spent a long time deciding on what element I wanted to show off on my dress and here was my conclusion.

1. Collar
2. Wrap around.

These two elements for me were the important elements that define a kimono.  Unfortunately I can not transfer the silhouette of a kimono outfit because that is a tube shape where lolita is more puffy so out with that.

Design

Now I have the elements I wanted to include, time to start start drafting.

Getting the collar was a bit tricky and additional darts were needed around the bust area to stop the top from gaping.

Not looking bad.

And now drafting the collar.

Construction

As always I started with the lining as if I made a mistake at least I can hide it.

And as always I forgot to take photos of the rest of the bodice as I was eager to complete to see what it looked like.

I finished the bodice Sunday evening when it dawned on me that I should add a mon on the back collar!

Therefore the following morning that is what I did.

Yep it is a little kitty!

Now to get the skirt sorted.

Checking the skirt was the right length.

Oh it is not a plain hem.  I had brought some broderie anglaise on a whim thinking it will definitely be useful and finally it was.  I did have some lovely cream/white trim but I wanted to keep it black.

Time to begin the skirt gathering.

Finished

And here it is.

I have to say I am quite pleased with it. 

The collar turned out just as I planned.

Especially the back!  Just like a kimono collar it stands away from the neck.

Originally I was going to add a couple of buttons to hold it closed but I changed my mind at the last moment and took some inspiration from my haori/michiyuki and added these cute ties.

And another picture of my mon as it is so sweet.  Maybe I should add a bow and make it hellokitty.

Of course pockets.  How can a girl live without them.

Conclusion

I am very happy with this project and I would love to make this in real kimono fabric so I have something to look forward too.

I wanted to see how this would look with some of my haori/michiyuki.

With a lace haori.

My current favourite michiyuki.

And my all time favourite haori.

The biggest problem I have found is that they do not sit very well over my bell shape skirt which is a shame but this means that if I didn't wear a petticoat then these outfits would be perfect for work!

I definitely need to make a waist length haori so looks like another project needs to be added to my to-do list!

Fabric Haul - Blue with mixed motifs silk

Now something usual, a silk kimono bolt.

I normally I favour wool or cotton bolts as they are easy to work and look after but I would not resist this one.

It is a love blue with lots of tiny strips of paper.

The back of the bolt.  Hmmm the blue dye has not gone through to the back.

What is nice about this one is the markings.  They are actually dyed into the fabric.  Look at gourd border!

The bolt has two names on it.  

And this one which is inside a gourd, what does the gourd mean?  There is also a plain white square which I will assume is where a stamp would normally be place but this one does not have one.  I wonder way?

What is lovely about this bolt is the little motifs on the strips of paper.

Here you can see some seigaha wave, maple leaf and chrysanthemum.

Where as this one we have kasamatsu and I'm not sure what the pattern is called on the left.

I really would love to use this to make a kimono out of it as it would be a lovely simple komon but it would also make a lovely dress as well.  I have a feeling this will sit in my collection for a couple of years before I turn it into something.

Fabric Haul - Cotton blue and white yabane bolt

Something down to earth.  

A cotton white and blue yabane bolt.

I think it is cotton as it does not have the same feel as the wool bolts that I have in my collection.

Plus the colouring has a feel of a yukata and these are normally made from cotton fabric.

From a distance, you can make out the yabana pattern but when you look at it close up it is not so clear.

I would love to make a lolita dress from this as metamorphose every so often release a wa-lolita dress  with yabane pattern.  However as much as I love them, they are just too fussy for my liking which is more toward the classics side of the fashion.  I will probably get some matching navy blue cotton fabric and trimmings when I make the dress.

Fabric Haul - Pink and white wool juban bolt

I have a lovely fabric to show you today! 

Isn't it cute :)

It is a wonderful wool bolt for a juban and it has delightful sakura/cherry blossoms all over it.

Unfortunately no labels or maker's mark on this one which is a shame.  However I am pretty sure this fabric for a juban as pink is a very common colour for them.  Also this has the same feel as my wool juban that I use regularly when I go out.

As you can see the fabric is fine as you can see the pattern from underneath.

I do need another wool juban in my kitsuke wardrobe but I will try and make a two piece from this.  Will probably use this to make the main body but use different fabric for the sleeves, maybe interchangeable ones so I have flexibility.

Fabric Haul - Muted Green wool

Today we have a lovely muted green wool bolt.

I'm lucky in that this time I have all the original labels.

Not sure what this label so if you know and please let me know.

Fabric composition is as follow: -

• 70 % Wool
• 15% Polyester
• 15% Nylon

Well at least I know it will be easy to look after.

Trying to describe the pattern is a little tricky but the best I can do is stripes in the background with irregular markings.

Here you can see the back side of the fabric which for once you can not mistake for the right and wrong side.

A nice closeup of the fabric texture.

And one final picture of the pattern.

Not sure what I will make from this as I already have a green wool kimono in my collection and it is one of my favourite ones.  So maybe I will turn it into a everyday frilly work dress.